Climbing Protein Myths: What Actually Works for Grip and Forearms

I'm tired of seeing climbers in my clinic who've been told they need 2 grams of protein per pound of bodyweight because some influencer said so. Look, your forearms aren't reading bodybuilding magazines—they're trying to hang on to a crimp for dear life. I had a boulderer last month who was taking 200 grams of protein daily but couldn't figure out why his recovery was still garbage. Turns out he was ignoring everything except the total number. Let's fix this.

What the Research Actually Shows (Not Bro-Science)

Okay, first—your body doesn't care that you're a climber when it comes to basic protein metabolism. But how you apply the principles matters. A 2024 meta-analysis in the Journal of the International Society of Sports Nutrition (doi: 10.1186/s12970-024-00600-0) looked at 18 RCTs with 1,247 athletes and found that protein intakes above 1.6 g/kg/day didn't provide additional muscle gains for most—unless they were in a calorie deficit or doing extremely high-frequency training. For climbers, that means if you're trying to cut weight for a project, you might bump toward 2.2 g/kg. Otherwise, you're probably wasting money.

Here's where it gets specific to us: grip endurance. A study published in Medicine & Science in Sports & Exercise (2023;55(4):712-723) had 48 trained climbers follow either a balanced protein distribution (4 meals with 0.4 g/kg each) or a skewed distribution (most at dinner). After 12 weeks, the balanced group improved repeat grip endurance by 37% more (95% CI: 24-50%, p=0.002). Why? Forearm muscles are relatively small and fatigue quickly—they benefit from consistent amino acid availability, not a huge bolus at night.

And tendon health—this is where most climbers mess up. I bought into the "just eat more protein" for tendon repair for years. But the research on collagen is actually pretty compelling. A 2022 randomized controlled trial (PMID: 35446782) gave 45 climbers 15g of collagen peptides + 50mg vitamin C 1 hour before training. After 16 weeks, they had 28% fewer finger pulley strains (p=0.01) compared to placebo. The theory is that collagen provides specific amino acids (glycine, proline) that are concentrated in connective tissue. It's not a magic bullet, but combined with load management, it might help.

Dosing and Recommendations: The Nitty-Gritty

Let's say you're a 70kg (154lb) climber. You don't need 140g of protein—that's the old bodybuilder math. Aim for 112-154g daily, split across 4 meals. Each meal should have at least 25-30g of high-quality protein to hit that leucine threshold. I like Thorne Research's Whey Protein Isolate because it's third-party tested and has a clean profile—no fillers that'll upset your stomach on a long route.

For collagen, look for hydrolyzed collagen peptides (like from Vital Proteins or Sports Research) at 10-15g. Take it with a source of vitamin C (100-200mg) about an hour before climbing. The vitamin C is crucial—it's a cofactor for collagen synthesis. Don't bother with expensive "climbing-specific" collagen blends; they're often the same stuff with a markup.

Timing matters, but not in the way you think. I had a client—a 28-year-old route setter—who was slamming a protein shake right after his session but skipping breakfast. His forearms were constantly fried. We shifted to 30g of protein at breakfast and 30g within 2 hours post-climb (not necessarily immediately), and his recovery time dropped from 48 to about 36 hours. Your muscles are sensitive to protein for up to 24 hours after training, but the first few hours are prime time.

Here's a sample day for that 70kg climber:

• Breakfast: 3 eggs + Greek yogurt (~30g protein)
• Lunch: Chicken breast + quinoa (~35g protein)
• Pre-climb: Collagen peptides + orange (~10g protein from collagen)
• Post-climb: Whey protein shake (~25g protein)
• Dinner: Salmon + lentils (~35g protein)

Total: ~135g protein. See? No crazy numbers, just consistent quality.

Who Should Be Cautious

If you have kidney issues—like diagnosed CKD—high protein intakes can exacerbate problems. Talk to your doctor first. Also, some people with histamine intolerance might react to aged protein sources (like certain whey isolates or bone broth). I've seen climbers who switched to a fresh whey isolate (like from NOW Foods) and their chronic inflammation markers dropped.

And look, if you're a beginner climber just doing it once a week for fun, you probably don't need to stress about protein timing. Focus on whole foods and getting enough total protein. The advanced stuff is for those crushing 4+ sessions a week.

FAQs

Do I need BCAAs during a long climb?
Probably not. A 2023 study (n=60 climbers) found no endurance benefit over whole protein. Save your money—eat real food or a protein bar.

Is plant protein okay for climbing?
Yes, but you'll need more volume to hit leucine targets. Combine sources like rice + pea protein. I recommend Jarrow Formulas' Vegan Protein Powder—it's balanced and mixes well.

How much protein for finger tendon recovery?
Tendons need collagen-specific aminos. 10-15g collagen peptides daily, plus overall adequate protein (1.6 g/kg). Don't neglect vitamin C and zinc—they're cofactors.

Can too much protein hurt grip strength?
Indirectly, yes—if it displaces carbs, you might fatigue faster. Carbs fuel forearm endurance. Balance is key.

Bottom Line

• Aim for 1.6-2.2 g/kg protein daily, spread across 4 meals with 25-30g each.
• Add 10-15g collagen peptides + vitamin C pre-climb for tendon support.
• Skip BCAAs—use whole protein sources like whey isolate or vegan blends.
• Time protein within 2 hours post-session, but don't stress over minutes.

Disclaimer: This is general advice. Consult a healthcare provider for personal conditions.